movable Air Conditioner - No Vent - No Way

A new visitor to my website asked if there was such a thing as a conveyable air conditioner with no vent. I wrote back that I had never heard of one, but would check it out just in case some new expand in conveyable air conditioning had slipped by me.

movable Air Conditioner - No Vent - No Way

movable Air Conditioner - No Vent - No Way

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movable Air Conditioner - No Vent - No Way

movable Air Conditioner - No Vent - No Way

What I found was the Haier industrial Cool 14,000 Btu conveyable Air Conditioner. In the goods record it states there's no need to setup a vent, but then goes on to say a "window exhaust kit" is included with the purchase.

I think what they're trying to do is persuade you and me that the term "vent" should be applied to permanent installations only like those for clothes dryers, and temporary installations, such as those used for conveyable air conditioners, aren't surely vents at all - they're "window exhaust kits."

Call it what you will, one way or other the hot air generated by the compressor needs to be exhausted from the room. So I guess if you buy a Haier you'll be "window kitting" the hot air out the window instead of having to vent it like everyone else.

The fact of the matter is there is no such thing as a conveyable air conditioner with no vent.

So if you're seeing for a conveyable cooling unit that doesn't want venting, (and once again the term "portable" is subject to interpretation) you have three choices: A fan, a small window air conditioner, or a conveyable swamp cooler - also known as a conveyable vaporing cooler.

movable Air Conditioner - No Vent - No Way

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Does Running Your Car's Air Conditioner as a matter of fact affect Gas Mileage

When it gets warm outside, your air conditioner becomes your best friend. This is most by all means; of course true in your car, where temperatures can sky rocket to 170 degrees under direct sunlight. But most habitancy these days are under the impression that the more you run your air conditioner the more gas your car will guzzle. Now that gas prices are higher than the cost to eat at McDonald's, habitancy are beginning to take precautions and do what they can to help with their cars fuel economy. The assumption that running your air conditioner burns way more gas is somewhat untrue. Leaving your air conditioner off makes barely any inequity in the whole of gas you burn. With the advent of modern, more fuel efficient cars, this myth is busted!

Does Running Your Car's Air Conditioner as a matter of fact affect Gas Mileage

Does Running Your Car's Air Conditioner as a matter of fact affect Gas Mileage

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Does Running Your Car's Air Conditioner as a matter of fact affect Gas Mileage

Does Running Your Car's Air Conditioner as a matter of fact affect Gas Mileage

The air conditioner draws its power from the motor which uses some gas, but with today's cars, this use of gas is minute. The air conditioner can decrease the fuel cheaper of your car up to 20% in some vehicles, but it depends on the type. Driving with the air conditioner is more fuel efficient than driving with the windows down. Driving with the windows down creates drag which means that your motor has to work harder to keep your car at the current speed; this burns more gas than if you just ran your air conditioner.

In the long run, using your air conditioner is far better than any other means of cooling yourself off in the car, unless you're driving in traffic. When you drive in traffic you aren't going very fast so the drag on the car is minimal. In these cases, you burn more fuel running the air conditioner than having the windows down. That makes sense. When you drive on the highway you can use either the air conditioner or the "window down" method to cool yourself, because, honestly, there is no noticeable inequity in gas usage at those speeds.

Here are some tips about you and the heat in your car. Before you get into a hot car, roll down the windows and let it air out. There is nothing worse than getting into a hot car, sitting on a lava hot seat, touching a super hot steering wheel, and breathing stuffy super heated air. Your car needs some time to cool down for itself and for you. Once you believe it is cool sufficient to truly sit on the seat, turn on the car and run the air conditioner on recirculation. This will help the car cool down much quicker, and you can be on the road fast without sacrificing a layer of your costly skin.

So now that you know the air conditioner can be your fuel efficient friend, maybe you won't be so quick to turn it off or ignore it in favor off putting the windows down and choking on bugs. The air conditioner in your car burns much less gas than your window method, so give your air conditioner a chance and be cool in the heat.

Does Running Your Car's Air Conditioner as a matter of fact affect Gas Mileage

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Air Conditioners Changing to R410a Refrigerant

With the world craze to "go green" we are finding a new principles being implemented in the way we use air conditioning.  The existing principles which many citizen refer to as Freon is indeed what is termed R-22. The R-22 refrigerant is being supplanted by the R410a refrigerant which is a much more environment amiable and power conserving system.  This overhaul is slated for 2010 and will replace the R-22 with the R410a fully because they work on two opposite pressure systems.

Air Conditioners Changing to R410a Refrigerant

Air Conditioners Changing to R410a Refrigerant

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Air Conditioners Changing to R410a Refrigerant

Air Conditioners Changing to R410a Refrigerant

The copper lines that the R-22 use will need to be changed out because it uses mineral oils that break down into damaging carbons that are speculated to be causing the global warming crisis the governments of the world seem to be so worried about. R-410a will use synthetic oil that will be able to sustain at much higher temperatures than that of the old.

The old piping will have mineral oil deposits throughout the piping and this is what the new principles is aimed at enhancing and replacing. If the piping is not supplanted it will wreak havoc with the new principles because it will not be able to take the pressure of the R410a and will fabricate deposits on the compressor walls and damage the metering device.

The implementation of this new principles will need a fresh start because if you were to incorporate the two it will cause the very same problems that the R-22 is said to be causing.  The old principles could have moisture retained inside the piping and this does not go well with the functions of the new R-410a.

If you are told by an installer or sales man of the new refrigerant that you can use your existing piping because they are going to blast it out or flush them out make sure you tell them you know more than they do and you want to have the piping fully supplanted when they setup the new heating and air system.

Whether you believe in global warming or not is irrelevant because we are going to see a convert in all the carbon systems that are currently operating over the planet. This being the case you might as well do your homework and get a firm understanding of what these changes are going to be so you know what you need to do to and how to abide by the inception of new equipment.

Air Conditioners Changing to R410a Refrigerant

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How to enunciate a Window Air Conditioner

A window unit, generally called a window air conditioner, is great for cooling a particular room or a group of rooms that do not have partition walls. A window air conditioner consists of a blower, fan, compressor, evaporator coil, condenser coil, thermostat and filter.

How to enunciate a Window Air Conditioner

How to enunciate a Window Air Conditioner

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How to enunciate a Window Air Conditioner

How to enunciate a Window Air Conditioner

Internal maintenance to the sealed refrigeration circuit (coils, compressor and motor) should be left to a trained technician. There are minor steps that you can take to keep your window air conditioner running strong.

During the winter months, window units should be removed and stored indoors in a clean, dry area. If you are storing your window air conditioner in the basement, be sure to elevate it to make sure it does not get exposed to water. All the time keep your unit in the upright position to preclude oil and refrigerant migration.

Warning: Before any work is done on your appliance, it should be unplugged and discharged. Failing to do so could ensue in severe, and potentially lethal, electrical shock.

Maintaining Basic Components
(These Procedures Should Only Be Attempted By A Trained Technician)

The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports and fan are prominent to service on a disposition basis to avoid serious problems. Typical guidelines for maintaining these parts are as follows (Be Sure To Refer To Your Owner'S Guide For Specifics On Your Unit):

Filter

Before every cooling season and once a month during the cooling season, the filter should be removed, cleaned and replaced. If you live in a particularly arid climate, this may need to be done more frequently. Most window air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like a sponge.

Clean filters with a mild detergent and water, rinsing well. Let the filter dry thoroughly before replacing. If your window air conditioner comes with a fiberglass furnace style filter, do not wash it; replace it with a new filter of the same type.

Power Cord

If your air conditioner stops working and you presuppose that it is not getting power, there could be a problem with the power cord. Power cords may come to be worn and fail to supply electricity to the air conditioner. To check the cord, take off the operate panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then attach a test wire over the bare lead wires.

Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-millimeter (Vom) set to the Rx1 scale to the prongs on the cord's plug. If the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.

Evaporator and Condenser Coils

Clean the evaporator and condenser coils the same time you clean the filter; before the start of the cooling season and once a month during the season. If your area is particularly dusty, this may need to be done more frequently. The coils can be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner hose. If the fins on the coils come to be bent, use a fin comb from your local hardware store to straighten them.

Switch

The selector switch, behind the operate panel, turns the window air conditioner on and off. If the air conditioner does not run on any setting, and you have already made sure that the power cord is working, you may have a faulty switch. To check, take off the operate panel and see if there is burnt insulation or black marks on the terminals. If so, replace your switch with one of the same type.

Thermostat

The thermostat is also placed behind the operate panel. If you believe you have a problem with your thermostat, here is how to test and replace it:

1) take off the grille and operate panel. There will be a climatic characteristic sensing bulb extending from the thermostat to the face of the evaporator coil

2) thought about take off the thermostat, noting the position of the sensing bulb. It must be replaced in the exact spot.

3) Check the thermostat with the Vom setting on the Rx1 scale. Clip the probes to the thermostat terminals and turn the climatic characteristic operate to the coldest setting. Your meter should read zero if the thermostat is working properly. If the reading is greater than zero, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type.

Drain Ports

The evaporator coil condenses water vapor from the air and funnels it through a drain port. At this point, the water is blown against the condenser coil, where it is dissipated.

Drain ports can come to be dirty and get clogged with debris. This results in water leakage, normally through the bottom of the front grille. To preclude clogging, clean the drain with a piece of wire. Do this at the beginning of every cooling season and when your unit starts to leak.

Fan

If your fan is not working or if it is particularly noisy, it is normally caused by loose or dirty fan blades. ensue these steps to mend the fan:

1) search the fan inside the cabinet.

2) Use a soft cloth and/or vacuum to clean out any debris.

3) Check tightness of all blades. Vibration can loosen fan fasteners. Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to tighten screws that connect the fan hub to the motor shaft.

4) If your fan has oil ports, apply a few drops of 20-weight non-detergent motor oil.

5) If you presuppose a faulty motor, test with the Vom on the Rx1 scale. connect Vom probes to disconnected terminal wires.

If the meter reads in the middle of 3 and 30 ohms, your motor is functioning properly. If your meter reads zero or it is extremely high, replace the motor.

To take off the fan motor, take off the fan blades, power wires and mounting bolts. Install a new motor by reversing this procedure. If the condenser coil prevents motor removal, do not effort to take off the motor. Call a professional.

If any other problems occur with the motor, compressor or coils, a expert service someone should be called.

By doing easy maintenance and repairs as described in this article, you can significantly enlarge the life and efficiency of your window air conditioner.

How to enunciate a Window Air Conditioner

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